Step 1

Heat oven to 475° F. Bring wine, oil, salt, lemon juice, butter, red pepper flakes, sugar, bay leaf, and 8 cups water to a boil in a large pot.

Step 2

Carefully lower in cauliflower, reduce heat, and simmer, turning occasionally, until a knife easily inserts into center, 15 to 20 minutes.

Step 3

Using 2 slotted spoons or a mesh strainer or spider, transfer cauliflower to a rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan, draining well.

Step 4

Roast, rotating pan halfway through, until brown all over, 30 to 40 minutes.

Step 5

Transfer cauliflower to a plate. Drizzle with oil; sprinkle with sea salt. Serve with whipped goat cheese (recipe below).

Step 6

Blend goat cheese, cream cheese, feta, cream, and 2 tablespoons olive oil in a food processor until smooth; season with sea salt.

Step 7

Transfer whipped goat cheese to a serving bowl and drizzle with olive oil.

Step 8

Note: Whipped goat cheese can be made one day ahead. Cover and chill in the refrigerator.