Step 1

Combine all purpose flour, spelt flour, cinnamon, and cardamom in a bowl and mix well. Add warm water, milk, yeast, salt, sugar, beating just until combined. Add egg and butter, mixing until the dough is sticky. Stir in the cranberries, apricots, cherries, and lemon zest.

Step 2

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead dough until smooth and gluten has formed – feel free to use a stand mixer or good, old fashioned elbow grease. Cover the bowl of dough loosely with a kitchen towel and leave in a warm area until it has doubled in size, between 60 and 70 minutes.

Step 3

Punch down the dough and divide in half. Divide each half in half, and then each lump of dough into thirds. You should have 12 equally-sized buns. Dust your hands with flour and lightly roll each bun into a ball. Set on a floured piece of parchment and cover loosely with a kitchen towel. Allow to double in size again, about 30 to 45 minutes, depending on how warm your kitchen is. While the buns are rising, preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).

Step 4

Once the buns have risen, arrange them on a parchment-covered baking sheet, leaving 3-inches of space between then. Gently make a 1/4-inch deep cross-shaped indentation in each bun with the back of a butter knife, making sure not to cut the surface of the dough.

Step 5

Make the icing for crosses: mix the pastry flour, powdered sugar, lemon juice, and cool water in a small bowl, then slowly trickle in the vegetable oil while beating quickly. You should have a spreadable but not runny consistency. Scoop the icing into a pastry bag and, using a flat, 1/4-inch wide tip, make a cross-shape on each bun, piping into the indentation you created with the butter knife. Wipe up any wayward icing that falls on the parchment, where it will smoke and burn.

Step 6

Slide the baking sheet into the oven, baking the buns for 15 minutes. While they are baking, combine the apricot jam with an equal amount of very hot water and a pinch of cardamom, mixing until you have a thin wash. Use a pastry brush to lightly brush a small amount of thinned jam onto the top of each bun while they are still hot, making sure not to smear the icing. Be judicious! No one likes soggy buns. Transfer buns to a cooling rack. Serve warm with butter and more jam, if you like.