Step 1

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees Fahrenheit with a rack in the upper third of the oven.

Step 2

Place the feta in the center of a two-quart baking dish. Place the garlic, tomatoes, and optional olives around the feta, in that order. Then drizzle the olive oil all over the mixture. Sprinkle with the red pepper flakes, if using, and several twists of pepper.

Step 3

Bake for 20 minutes on the upper third, then place the dish on a heat-safe surface. Gently stir the tomatoes around the feta and tuck the garlic cloves back down to the bottom of the dish.

Step 4

Return the dish to the oven and bake for 10 to 15 more minutes, until the tomatoes are juicy and shriveling and the feta is turning somewhat golden.

Step 5

Remove the dish from the oven. Carefully, using a fork, find each of the four garlic cloves and smash each one against the side of the pan. Gently swirl the feta and tomatoes together—not enough to make the dish completely uniform, but to more evenly distribute the ingredients. Taste, and add a pinch salt if desired (the dish is usually plenty salty for me when made with olives, without them you may prefer a bit of additional salt).

Step 6

Sprinkle all over with fresh basil. Serve warm, with crostini or pita wedges on the side. Leftovers keep well, covered and refrigerated, for up to 4 days. Gently reheat before serving.