Step 1

Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 500°. Prick potatoes all over with a fork (this allows the steam to escape, which helps the insides of the potatoes cook evenly and the skins crisp).

Step 2

Working one at a time, drizzle a bit of oil over each potato and rub all over with your hands to cover in a thin, even layer; season with kosher salt and pepper. Set potatoes directly on oven rack and bake until the outsides are deeply browned and crisp and the insides are very tender (a paring knife inserted into the flesh should meet no resistance), 60–70 minutes.

Step 3

Using tongs or oven mitts, transfer potatoes to a platter. Set out along with bowls of sour cream, chives, dill, butter, roe, sea salt, and pepper—and whatever else you feel like—and let guests slice open and top to their hearts’ content.