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In a wide container, sprinkle gelatin on top of stock and set aside.
In a large Dutch oven, melt butter over medium-high heat until foaming. Add carrots, celery, and onion and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 6 minutes. Add half (2 pounds) of the ground meat and cook, stirring occasionally and breaking up any large pieces as you go, until well browned on bottom of pot, about 15 minutes.
Add remaining 2 pounds meat and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot while breaking up the meat into very small pieces, until all meat is cooked through, about 6 minutes; lower heat at any point to prevent scorching.
Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in wine, scraping bottom of pot, and bring to a boil, then cook until raw alcohol smell has cooked off, about 5 minutes. Add bay leaves.
Add reserved stock, scraping all the hydrated gelatin with it, to the Dutch oven and bring to a simmer; lower heat to maintain a very gentle simmer. Season with salt and add pinch nutmeg and fish sauce. Continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce is thickened and has almost no excess liquid remaining, about 3 hours. Skim and discard any fat from surface along with bay leaves. Stir in cream and season with salt.
Use right away, refrigerate up to 5 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.