Step 1

For the ribs: Cut ribs into smaller pieces, roughly square, so each piece includes a bone. Trim excess fat if necessary.

Step 2

Season generously with salt and pepper and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours, or overnight.

Step 3

Arrange ribs bone-side down in roasting pan and roast at 475 degrees until lightly browned, about 20 minutes.

Step 4

Meanwhile, saute onions in olive oil in large skillet over medium heat until lightly colored, 6 to 7 minutes. Add leeks and carrot and cook until slightly softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add tomatoes, garlic, thyme, parsley and bay leaves and saute 2 minutes more.

Step 5

Spread vegetables in roasting pan large enough to hold ribs. Arrange ribs on top of vegetables, bone-side up. Add wine and enough hot stock to barely cover ribs. Cover pan tightly with foil and place in oven. When braise begins to simmer, after about 20 minutes, loosen foil and reduce heat to 350 degrees.

Step 6

Begin to test for doneness after 1 1/2 hours. A skewer or paring knife inserted into meat should encounter no resistance, and meat should be nearly falling from bone. When they are tender, uncover ribs and turn them again so that bone side is down. Pour off and reserve braising juices.

Step 7

Raise heat to 450 degrees and return ribs to oven for a final browning.

Step 8

When they are beautifully glazed, after about 10 minutes, remove from oven. Strain braising liquid into bowl, pressing down on solids to extract juices. Allow liquid to settle, then spoon out grease. Pour liquid back over ribs and reheat if serving immediately, or cool, refrigerate and serve next day with Gremolata.

Step 9

For the gremolata: Just before serving, mix parsley, zest and garlic and scatter over short ribs. (These ingredients should be prepared at the last minute.)