Step 1

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Step 2

Heat the oil in a very large skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until it just begins to crisp, about 6 minutes.

Step 3

If desired, drain some of the bacon drippings and oil from the skillet. Add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion is transparent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the wine and simmer until it's reduced, about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes (along with their juices) and vinegar and bring to a simmer. Let cook, crushing the tomatoes with the back of a spoon as they soften, until the sauce comes together, about 10 minutes. Season with the chile flakes, salt, if using, and pepper, bearing in mind the cheese will add quite a lot of saltiness to the dish. Keep the sauce warm over low heat.

Step 4

Cook the pasta al dente according to the package instructions. Drain the pasta well, reserving 1/4 cup pasta cooking water. Add the pasta and the reserved liquid to the sauce and return the skillet to medium heat. Toss the pasta gently until it's well coated and heated through, about 5 minutes. Fold in the cheese.

Step 5

Serve the pasta hot and pass plenty of additional cheese on the side.