Step 1

Arrange 2 racks to divide the oven into thirds and heat the oven to 425°F. Meanwhile, place 1 (28-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes and their juices in a food processor fitted with the blade attachment. Pulse until the tomatoes are finely chopped, about 6 (1-second) pulses. Mince 4 garlic cloves.

Step 2

Trim and slice 2 1/2 pounds eggplants crosswise into 1/4-inch thick rounds. Arrange the slices in a single layer on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Brush lightly on both sides with 1/4 cup of the olive oil and season all over with 1 teaspoon of the kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Roast, rotating the racks and flipping the eggplant slices halfway through, until tender and light golden-brown, about 30 minutes total.

Step 3

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large high-sided skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add the garlic and 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes and season with 1/2 teaspoon of the kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until thickened (about 2 cups), about 15 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat.

Step 4

Pick and coarsely chop the leaves from 1 bunch fresh basil until you have 1/2 cup. Pick and coarsely chop the leaves from 1 small bunch fresh oregano until you have 2 teaspoons. If needed, grate 8 ounces low-moisture mozzarella cheese on the large holes on a box grater (about 2 cups).

Step 5

Place 1 pound whole milk ricotta cheese and 3 large eggs in a medium bowl and whisk until combined. Add the basil, oregano, half of the mozzarella, a few grinds of freshly grated nutmeg or a pinch of ground nutmeg, the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, and stir to combine.

Step 6

Drizzle an 8-inch square baking dish with olive oil and brush all over. Arrange 1/3 of the roasted eggplant rounds in the dish. Spoon 1/3 of the sauce over the eggplant. Dollop 1/3 of the ricotta mixture over the sauce and smooth the top. Repeat layering the remaining eggplant, marinara, and ricotta mixture two more times.

Step 7

Sprinkle the remaining mozzarella evenly over the top. Place the baking dish on a baking sheet. Bake on the lower rack until golden brown and bubbling around the edges, about 30 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with more torn or small fresh basil leaves before serving.