Step 1

Thaw one 14-oz. package frozen all-butter puff pastry overnight in the refrigerator. Keep chilled until ready to roll out. (Or, if you forget to move pastry to the refrigerator the night before, use this day-of method. Remove the pastry from the box and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet—don’t unfold it, or it’ll crack. Let sit 10 minutes, turning the pastry halfway through. If it’s pliable after 10 minutes, unfold. If your box has more than 1 sheet of puff pastry, separate with some parchment paper. Chill in the refrigerator until ready to use. If pastry isn’t ready, wait another 5 minutes. Puff pastry goes from stiff to flabby and sticky in a matter of minutes, so be vigilant.)

Step 2

Gently crush 2 large garlic cloves with the flat side of a chef’s knife just to loosen the skins. Peel and thinly slice the cloves (save peels for stock, if you like).

Step 3

Strip leaves from 3–4 sprigs thyme and 2 large sprigs marjoram or oregano and coarsely chop. (You should have about 1 tsp. thyme and 1 Tbsp. marjoram.)

Step 4

Combine garlic and 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a cold large skillet. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until garlic begins to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Add herbs and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add 1 pint cherry tomatoes, ¾ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, and ⅓ cup water to pan. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are just starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Gently crush tomatoes with spoon. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes are jammy, 8–10 minutes more, depending on ripeness. (You’re looking for a consistency slightly looser than tomato paste to prevent soggy hand pies.) Let tomato mixture cool.

Step 5

Meanwhile, grate 6 oz. Gruyére or other semihard or semisoft melting cheese (such as cheddar, low-moisture mozzarella, or Fontina) on the large holes of a box grater. Transfer to a medium bowl and add ⅓ cup crème fraîche, remaining ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, remaining ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, and ⅛ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg (if desired). Mix well and set cheese mixture aside.

Step 6

Beat 1 large egg with 1 Tbsp. water in a small bowl to blend. Set egg wash aside.

Step 7

Roll out puff pastry on a large well-floured surface to an 18x15" rectangle. Slice in half lengthwise, then in half crosswise. Cut each quarter in half again crosswise so you have 8 rectangles, about 7½x4½".

Step 8

To assemble the hand pies, arrange a pastry rectangle so a short side is closest to you. Mound 2 Tbsp. reserved cheese mixture on bottom half of each rectangle, leaving a 1" border along bottom and sides. Top cheese mixture with 1 Tbsp. tomato mixture.

Step 9

Working one at a time, brush borders of pastry with a thin layer of reserved egg wash. Fold the top (empty) half of pastry up and over filling so edges of pastry line up, then gently press together. Crimp edges with a fork to seal. (Be forceful as puff pastry has a tendency to pull open when baking.) Trim about ¼" from each crimped side with a bench scraper or knife, pressing straight down (this will help seal the dough). Place sealed hand pies on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing 1" apart.

Step 10

Lightly brush tops of hand pies with egg wash and sprinkle with coarsely ground black pepper if desired. Chill in the freezer 30 minutes.

Step 11

Meanwhile, preheat oven to 375°.

Step 12

Pull hand pies from freezer and cut two ½"-long vents in the top of each.

Step 13

Bake hand pies until pastry is cooked through, puffed, and golden brown, 32–35 minutes. Let cool 10 minutes on baking sheet. If any cheese has oozed out and connected the pies, cut with a spatula so each pie has some crispy, lacy cheese bits. Serve warm or at room temperature.