Step 1

Heat a large skillet over medium-high. Swirl in oil. Add onion, celery, and carrots; season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Add chicken; season with salt and pepper. Cook, breaking into bite-size pieces, until no longer pink, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in tomato paste; cook 2 minutes. Add wine; boil until almost evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Add milk and tomatoes; reduce heat and simmer until thickened, 12 to 15 minutes.

Step 2

Cook pasta in a large pot of salted water. Drain, reserving 1 cup pasta water; return to pot. Add sauce, then pasta water, a little at a time, until sauce evenly coats pasta. Drizzle with oil and top with celery leaves, cheese, and a pinch of nutmeg; serve.