Step 1

Season the chicken well with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in Dutch oven or a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until lightly smoking. Add the chicken, skin-side down. Cook without moving until browned, 6 to 10 minutes. Flip and cook until second side is browned, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove to a plate and set aside.

Step 2

Discard all but 1 tablespoon of fat and return pot to medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring and scraping up browned bits from bottom of pan until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the cumin and cayenne and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until fragrant and lightly toasted, about 1 minute. Add the coconut milk and chicken stock (or water), stir together, then nestle the chicken back on top, skin side up. Adjust the heat to maintain a simmer, then cover and cook until the chicken and rice are almost done, 15 to 20 minutes, longer, checking that rice isn't burning occasionally (see note). Add snow peas, stir, and cook until rice and chicken are fully cooked and snow peas are bright green, 1 to 2 minutes longer.

Step 3

Stir in the lime juice and zest, season to taste with salt and pepper, sprinkle with cilantro, and serve.