Step 1

Wash the chicken. Leave the skin on while the chicken cooks, for it adds a lush smoothness as ell as flavor to the stew, which contains no other fat. Use a cleaver to chop the chicken into smaller pieces (cut whole legs into 3 or 4 pieces. half-breasts into 2 or 3 pieces). Rinse the pieces again and place in a wide heavy pot

Step 2

Add the water and bring to a boil. Let boil for about 5 minutes, skimming off and discarding the foam that will collect on the surface

Step 3

Add the ginger, garlic, Szechuan peppercorns, and chiles, then lower the heat to maintain a strong simmer. Cook, uncovered, for about 35 minutes, turning the chicken pieces occasionally if they are not completely immersed in the water. Add the wine, soy sauce, and salt and bring back to a boil. The chicken pieces should now be cooked through, cook a little longer if they are not (if you wish, lift the skin off the chicken and discard at this point)

Step 4

Add the potatoes and carrots, stir in, and bring back to a boil. After 5 minutes, add the daikon. Cook until the vegetables are just done, another 5 to 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning and adjust if you wish. (The stew can be made ahead to this point and set aside for up to 3 hours; refrigerate if for more than 1 hour. Bring back to a strong simmer before proceeding)

Step 5

Add the greens, if using, and stir in. They will turn bright green and be cooked almost at once. Serve hot

Step 6

Wash the chiles well, then cut off the stems and coarsely chop the chiles. Place them in a food processor, add the salt, and process to a paste. Add the sugar, if using, and the vinegar and pulse to blend. Alternatively, you can use mortal and pestle like I did

Step 7

Turn out into a bowl, using a rubber spatula to scrape the chile paste from the processor bowl, and add water to thin to the texture you desire. With the amount of water suggested above, the paste will be thick and dense with chiles, but it can be made quite thin by adding up to 1/4 cup water; it's up to you, just add another pinch of salt

Step 8

Stored in a clean glass jar with a tight-fitting lid in the refrigerator and it will keep for a week or so