Step 1

Adjust the rack to the middle of the oven and preheat to 400°F. Melt the butter in a large skillet set over medium heat. Once it is bubbling, add the onion. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes until it softens. Add the garlic and chile, stir and cook for another minute. Add chaya leaves and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, stir and cook until the chaya leaves soften, let out juices and almost dry out, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Step 2

In a large measuring cup or bowl, combine the heavy cream and milk, season with the remaining teaspoon salt and the black pepper, and stir.

Step 3

Peel the potatoes and slice them into thin rounds using a knife or mandolin, place them in a bowl with cold water as you move along so they won’t turn brown.

Step 4

Butter a round baking dish or cast iron pan and pour about a cup of the cream mixture into the bottom. Start spreading the potato slices in a circular pattern, evenly at the bottom. Once they have covered the cream, pour another cup of cream and repeat with more potatoes. Once you are about halfway through, add the chaya mixture in a single layer. Continue with the potatoes and cream mixture until you are all done. Press the potatoes down slightly into the milk so they will soak in the milk.

Step 5

Place the baking dish on a baking sheet to prevent spills. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven, sprinkle the cheese all over the top. Place back in the oven for another 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are completely cooked and soft, most of the liquid has been absorbed and thickened, and the cheese is melted and has begun to brown. Remove from the oven. Cover to keep warm until ready to serve, or let it settle for at least 5 minutes before diving in.