Step 1

Cook 1 lb. medium pasta (such as gemelli or casarecce) in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving ½ cup pasta cooking liquid.

Step 2

Meanwhile, slice a thin round off the bottoms of 2 lb. ripe tomatoes (3–4 large). Starting at cut end, grate each tomato on the large holes of a box grater into a medium bowl until all that’s left is the flattened tomato skin and stem; discard skins and stems.

Step 3

Mix 2 Tbsp. fish sauce and 3 Tbsp. white miso in a small bowl until smooth.

Step 4

Heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large high-sided skillet or a large Dutch oven over medium-high. Add grated tomatoes along with any liquid and cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly reduced, 5–7 minutes. Add fish sauce mixture and cook, stirring often, until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.

Step 5

Add pasta, 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces, and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Cook, stirring often and adding reserved pasta cooking liquid as needed, until butter is melted and pasta is coated, about 1 minute.

Step 6

Divide pasta among bowls and top with thinly sliced seasoned toasted seaweed snacks and torn basil leaves.