Step 1

Peel, stem and seed chiles, then finely chop (mince Anaheims and poblanos, since they're sturdier). Preheat oven to 400°.

Step 2

Heat oil and butter in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in chiles, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, 3 minutes to blend flavors. Add 1 1/4 cups broth and simmer until reduced by one-third, about 10 minutes.

Step 3

Meanwhile, prepare tortillas: In a small frying pan, bring remaining 2 1/2 cups broth to a gentle simmer. Working with one at a time, very briefly dip tortillas into broth to barely soften. Transfer each tortilla to a large baking sheet (you may need 2 or 3 sheets). Do not overlap or tortillas will stick.

Step 4

Divide 1 1/4 cups cheese equally among tortillas and top each with shredded chicken, dividing evenly. Wrap tortilla around filling and transfer, seam-side down, to a 9- by 13-in. baking dish.

Step 5

Pour chile sauce over enchiladas, leaving an inch or so bare at either end of the enchiladas if you like a bit of crunch, and top with remaining 3/4 cup cheese. Bake until cheese is bubbling and browned, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with sour cream.

Step 6

*Find frozen flame-roasted New Mexico green chiles, mild to spicy, for $6 for 5 lbs. at newmexicanconnection.com. If using Anaheims and poblanos, broil until they blacken all over, 10 to 15 minutes, turning once, and let them cool before peeling.

Step 7

Cooking with chiles

Step 8

This recipe is best when made with New Mexico chiles, preferably northern varieties such as Chimayo. Anaheim chiles, which are a New Mexico variety, are widely available throughout the West and make a fine substitute for northern green chiles—roast them over a stovetop burner or under a broiler to blacken the skins. (And if you're sensitive to chiles, wear gloves when handling.) Canned green chiles just don't cut it here.

Step 9

See "Finding New Mexico Chiles," (below) for mail-order sources.

Step 10

Finding New Mexico chiles

Step 11

Native Seeds/SEARCH. Grow northern New Mexico chiles from heirloom seeds. www.nativeseeds.org or 866/622-

Step 12

New Mexican Connection. We couldn't find a reliable mail-order source for roasted northern green chiles, but we did find good roasted Sandia chiles here. $56 for 5 lbs., including shipping; www.newmexicanconnection.com or 800/933-

Step 13

Santa Fe Farmers Market. The best place to find northern New Mexico chiles, both fresh and dried. Various locations and hours; contact www.santafefarmersmarket.com or 505/983-