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Preheat the oven to 400ºF (200ºC). Toss squash with olive oil, salt, and baking soda (if using), and arrange on a rimmed baking sheet, making sure not to overcrowd the sheet. Roast, using a thin metal spatula to turn pieces 2 or 3 times during cooking, until squash is tender and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Set aside. Serious Eats / Amanda Suarez