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Step 1
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F, for at least 15 minutes. Cover the bottom of a large (5 qt) Dutch oven or cast iron with parchment paper (no need to trim) and reserve.
Step 2
In a large bowl, combine all the dry ingredients. Gradually add the buttermilk, using your fingers to mix, until a dough comes together and you see no traces of flour or buttermilk. For a rustic loaf, stop handling as soon as the dough comes together. For a finer crumb and smoother crust, you can fold dough about 20 seconds more. Roughly shape it into a ball and transfer into prepared Dutch oven.
Step 3
Using a sharp knife, score a cross into the top, cleaning the blade in between each cut.
Step 4
Cover and bake until it's risen, about 45 minutes. Then, remove the lid and continue baking until golden brown, about 10 to 15 more minutes. Remove from oven and let it cool slightly in the Dutch oven. Then, transfer to a cooler rack and cool for at least 30 minutes before serving.
Step 5
Serve while it's still warm, with butter, or as a side for stews and soups!