Step 1

To make the tangzhong: Weigh your flour; or measure it by gently spooning it into a cup, then sweeping off any excess.

Step 2

, Combine the flour, milk, and water in a small saucepan. Stir over medium heat until thickened.

Step 3

, Transfer the tangzhong to a large bowl. Add the butter and whisk until melted, then add the milk and egg, whisking until smooth.

Step 4

, Add the yeast and stir to combine. Let the mixture rest for 10 minutes.

Step 5

, To make the dough: Combine the tangzhong mixture with the remaining ingredients (except the chocolate chips), then mix and knead — by mixer or bread machine — to make a smooth, elastic dough; this could take almost 15 minutes in a stand mixer.

Step 6

, Stir in the chocolate chips; some hand kneading in the bowl may ease incorporation.

Step 7

, Shape the dough into a ball and let it rest in a lightly greased bowl, covered, for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until puffy but not necessarily doubled in bulk.

Step 8

, Gently deflate the dough and divide it into four pieces; if you have a scale each piece will weigh about 180g.

Step 9

, Flatten each piece of dough into a 5" x 8" rectangle, then fold the short ends in toward one another like a letter. Flatten the folded pieces into rectangles again (this time about 3" x 6") and, starting with a short end, roll them each into a 4" log.

Step 10

, Place the logs in a row of four — seam side down and side by side — in a lightly greased 9" x 5" or 9" x 4" x 4" pan.

Step 11

, Cover the loaf and allow it to rise for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, until puffy and risen to roughly 1" from the top of the pan.

Step 12

, Toward the end of the rising time, preheat the oven to 350°F.

Step 13

, To bake the bread: Brush the loaf with the egg/water (egg wash) and sprinkle with the sparkling sugar or pearl sugar.

Step 14

, Bake the bread for 30 to 35 minutes, until it's firm on top and a digital thermometer inserted into the center reads at least 190°F.

Step 15

, Remove the loaf from the oven and cool it briefly in the pan, just until you can transfer it safely to a rack to cool completely.

Step 16

, Storage information: Store leftover bread, well wrapped, at cool room temperature for 5 to 7 days; freeze for longer storage.