Step 1

Prepare scald (tangzhong): Add 30g whole wheat flour and 190g whole milk into a small saucepan. Whisk to combine. Set over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly to prevent burning on the bottom of pan, until mixture thickens to the consistency of thin mashed potatoes. Remove from heat and set aside to cool.

Step 2

Mix and rest: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook add the ripe starter, 550g whole wheat flour, honey, 270g whole milk, eggs, and the cooled scald mixture. Mix on low speed until well combined. The dough will look sticky/shaggy. Cover and allow to rest for 30 minutes.

Step 3

Add butter, salt, and knead: After resting, add butter cubes and salt, then knead for about 6-8 minutes (on the lowest speed you can use without your mixer lagging), stopping to scrape the sides of the mixer bowl as necessary. Knead until the dough cleans itself off the mixer bowl to hold to the dough hook and looks taut, smooth and shiny. You should be able to stretch it dramatically into a very thin "windowpane" if you pull it with damp fingers after a minute of rest. If it's tearing when pulled and still rather sticky, continue kneading for a couple more minutes and check again.

Step 4

Bulk fermentation: When kneading is done, use damp hands to remove dough from mixer. Form into a ball, and place in a straight-sided container for bulk fermentation. Press the surface of the dough flat with a damp hand, cover, and mark the dough's starting point on the outside of the container with a dry-erase marker. Set in a warm spot until dough has risen by 75% (not doubled in size). (Bulk took me 3 hours with a final dough temp and ambient temp of 78°F (26°C).)

Step 5

Shape: Grease 2 small pullman pans or standard 1-pound loaf pans with softened butter or oil. Turn out dough onto a clean surface. Divide into two equal pieces (weigh for accuracy). On a lightly-floured surface with lightly floured hands, press the first piece of dough flat (degas) into the shape of a rough circle. To shape into a loaf, fold the two side edges slightly into the center, then roll the loaf into a log from the bottom, creating some tension as you go. Place the loaf seam-side-down in a greased pan (do not press loaf down). Repeat to shape the second piece of dough.

Step 6

Proof: Cover pans loosely with plastic wrap and set in a warm place to proof. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350°F (176°C) with a rack set in the center. When fully proofed, the loaves should reach 3/4-inch below the rims of pullman pans or 1 inch above the rims of standard loaf pans. (Proofing took me 2 hours, 40 minutes at 78*F (26°C).)

Step 7

Bake: Without deflating the dough, brush the tops of the loaves with milk using a pastry brush. Bake loaves side-by-side on the center rack for 30-35 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 190°F (88°C). Leave bread in the pans to cool for 10 minutes, then turn loaves out onto a cooling rack to cool completely before slicing or storing.