Step 1

Preparation Cover potatoes with water in a large pot and season well with salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer until tender, 12 to 20 minutes.

Step 2

While potatoes cook, stir together celery, mayonnaise, chives, lemon zest and juice, sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, and 3/4 teaspoon pepper in a large bowl.

Step 3

Drain potatoes and cool completely, then halve or quarter. Add to dressing and toss to coat.

Step 4

What to drink: Artezin Mendocino

Step 5

Zinfandel '07 or

Step 6

Château de Chamirey

Step 7

Mercurey Rouge '07

Step 8

Cooks' note:Potato salad can be made 1 day ahead and chilled. Bring to room temperature before serving.