Step 1

In a large pot, combine the potatoes, 1 tablespoon salt and bay. Add enough water to cover by 2 inches, then boil over high. Reduce to medium, then simmer until a skewer inserted into the potatoes meets no resistance, 20 to 25 minutes.

Step 2

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium, melt the butter. Once melted, cook, swirling the pan often, until the milk solids at the bottom are deeply browned and the butter has a rich, nutty aroma, 2 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately add the thyme, sage and/or rosemary. Swirl to coat in butter, then set aside.

Step 3

When the potatoes are done, drain them in a colander. Remove and discard the bay, then return the potatoes to the pot. Remove and discard the herbs from the browned butter, then add 3 tablespoons of it to the potatoes. Mash until smooth. Stir in the half-and-half, then taste and season with salt.

Step 4

Transfer to a serving dish and, using the back of a spoon, create swirls across the surface. Pour the remaining browned butter over the top, allowing it to pool. Sprinkle with the chives (if using) and pepper.