Step 1

Arrange a rack in the upper third of the oven and heat the oven to 350°F.

Step 2

Finely chop 1 medium yellow onion (1 1/2 cups) and place in a medium bowl. Halve the white and light green parts of 3 medium leeks lengthwise, then cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick strips until you have 2 cups. Rinse well, drain, and add to the bowl of onion.

Step 3

Dice 12 ounces ham steak (about 2 1/2 cups). Mince 1 large garlic clove. Trim and cut 1/2 bunch asparagus crosswise into 1-inch pieces (2 cups).

Step 4

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a 3- to 4-quart braiser over medium-high heat until shimmering (or cook in a large frying pan and bake in a greased 9x13-inch baking dish). Add the ham and cook until golden-brown, 4 to 5 minutes.

Step 5

Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, onion, and leeks to the pan. Season with 1 teaspoon of the kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. Cook until translucent and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. (You want the veggies to be cooked three-quarters of the way, because they will continue to cook in the oven.)

Step 6

Add the asparagus and garlic and sauté until just tender, about 4 minutes. (There shouldn't be too much color on the vegetables.)

Step 7

Add 1 cup frozen peas. Stir to combine, then remove from the heat. Let cool slightly while you make the custard filling. (If using a 9x13-inch baking dish, transfer to the dish and spread into an even layer.) Meanwhile, grate 6 to 7 ounces sharp white cheddar cheese on the large holes of a box grater (about 1 3/4 cups).

Step 8

Place 8 large eggs, 1 1/2 cups heavy cream, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1/2 teaspoon of the kosher salt, and a few grinds of black pepper in a large bowl and whisk to combine. Pour over the veggie and ham mixture. (The vegetables should be visible and not swimming in the eggy mixture. That way the potato tots don't sink!)

Step 9

Cut 4 ounces cream cheese into 12 pieces and scatter over the vegetable-and-egg mixture. Sprinkle evenly with the cheddar.

Step 10

Arrange 22 to 28 ounces frozen potato tots side-by-side in a uniform pattern on top of the custard filling. Sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper. (If you have remaining tots, bake them off and snack on them later!)

Step 11

Bake until the potato tots are golden-brown and the egg mixture is set, 40 to 55 minutes. (A thin knife inserted into the center should come out clean.) Meanwhile, finely chop until you have 2 tablespoons fresh dill or fresh chives.

Step 12

Sprinkle with the dill or chives, and a few splashes of hot sauce before serving.