Step 1

Read my article on the Science of Potatoes.

Step 2

Prep. With a brush or scrubby sponge devoid of soap, rub the skins hard enough to remove all dirt, but not so hard to remove the skins. Cut out any bad spots. Slice them in half lengthwise. Sniff them carefully. Nothing is worse than a musty potato.

Step 3

While the potatoes are wet, generously sprinkle your favorite spice rub all over. If the rub does not have salt, sprinkle table salt on too. Table salt is better than big grained salt because it will dissolve and diffuse into the potato faster. Let the spuds sit at room temp for 15 to 30 minutes so the salt will melt and begin migrating towards the center.

Step 4

Fire up. Set up a grill for 2-zone cooking and shoot for 325°F (162.8°C) in the indirect zone. If you are in a hurry you can pre-cook them in the microwave for 5 minutes on high. Not any longer or you will not get a good papery skin. The baking on the grill will take as little as 30 minutes after microwaving.

Step 5

Cook. Put them on the indirect heat side of the grill and let them bake, cut side up, lid down, for about 90 minutes until the temp in the centers is about 190°F (87.8°C). The edges, which are thinner, will be a little higher.

Step 6

Melt the butter in the microwave for about 30 seconds to a minute—each oven will vary— and paint the potatoes all over with the butter. Move them to the direct heat side, cut side down, and let the cut side brown in the direct radiant heat, lid down, for about two minutes until they start to get golden, but don't continue painting them if you want crispy skins. Then roll them over and brown the skin sides.

Step 7

Remove them from the heat. They should be in that 200°F (93.3°C) range. Goldilocks! If you like a little al dente crunch, pull them at 200°F (93.3°C). If you want them really fluffy under the crust, take them to 210°F (98.9°C). Bring them in, mash the contents with a fork, and dress them.

Step 8

Serve. Here are some fun ways to gussy up a spud:Purists (who me?) use only butter or sour cream, or both, with salt and pepper and perhaps a sprinkling of chopped fresh chives or green onions. The adventurous will add broccoli florets, fresh thyme, fresh dill weed, fresh basil, or cowboy candy.Here's one of my all-time favorites: Splashes of malt vinegar. That's right, just plain malt vinegar. Tons of flavor, zero calories. If you've ever been to England, you've tasted fish and chips with malt vinegar. Balsamic or sherry vinegar work, but not nearly as well. For a fun change of place, try Crema Mexicana, which is similar to sour cream, or try my recipe for horseradish cream sauce.Make lemon butter by melting butter, squeezing in a bit of lemon juice, and whisking together thoroughly. One lemon per stick of butter is a good ratio. Or skip the juice and just mix in the zest of the lemon.Or you can go the cheese route with a few dollops of home made boursin (a favorite of mine), pimento cheese spread, fresh chevre (a light creamy tart goat cheese), crumbled blue cheese, or shredded cheddar.Stir in pesto, tomato salsa, caramelized onions, home made ketchup.Go crazy and top it with bacon, lobster, shrimp, pulled pork, chopped brisket, hot dog chili, or chopped hard boiled eggs with chopped onions.Caviar anyone?