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Step 1
If using bacon, in a 4-quart dutch oven or pot, fry the bacon over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until crispy, about 10 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate. In a 4-quart dutch oven or pot (or the pot used to render the bacon), heat the butter (or bacon fat) on medium-low until melted and sizzling. Add onion and celery to the pot, cooking until the mixture has noticeably reduced in size and is no longer shedding water, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the mushrooms to the pot, stir to combine, then press the mushrooms down flat with the back of your spoon or spatula to maximize browning—leave for at least five minutes untouched. Flip a few mushrooms over and add the soy sauce, confirming they have large spots of golden brown, press down again and cook for an additional 2 minutes. See headnote about using alternative mushrooms. Once the mushrooms are browned add the stock and wine, deglazing the pan while scraping any browned pieces that are stuck on the base. Add the potatoes and corn to the pot. Rest the thyme sprigs and bay leaf on top of the chowder and bring it to a simmer for 20 minutes with the lid off and then an additional 5 minutes with the lid on to finish cooking the potatoes. If making the mushroom bacon, heat your oven to 375°F. Add soy sauce, Worcestershire, and oil to a bowl along with the thinly sliced mushrooms to marinate, stirring occasionally, for at least 20 minutes. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper; place mushroom slices flat on a sheet pan without any overlap. (Note: Silicone baking mats will not work for this as the mushrooms will steam too much and not get crispy.) Roast mushrooms for 20 minutes or until crispy and dark brown; they will shrink in size dramatically. Let them cool a little before using. Once the 25 minutes are up and you’ve confirmed the potatoes are cooked, fish out the thyme sprigs and bay leaves, and bring the heat down to low. Rapidly stir in the heavy cream. Remove from the heat. Optional step: with an immersion blender, blend a few small spots of the soup to thicken up the base - I prefer this method but alternatively, you could mash about a cup of the potatoes or make a cornstarch slurry with 1 tablespoon cornstarch and 2 tablespoons cold water. Stir in half the chives and seaweed pieces. Add salt and pepper to taste. Divide the chowder amongst bowls and top with the (mushroom) bacon, remaining chives, seaweed, and oyster crackers.
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