Step 1

Preheat oven to 375°. Combine paprika, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Season short ribs with 1½ tsp. spice mixture. Place in a shallow baking pan and roast until browned and fat has rendered, about 45 minutes.

Step 2

Transfer bones to a large Dutch oven or heavy pot. Discard fat. Add stew meat, bay leaves, and 2 qt. water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer 2 hours (the broth develops stronger flavor the longer you let it simmer). Using tongs, remove bones. When cool enough to handle, trim any meat from bones and return meat to pot. Discard fat and bones.

Step 3

Heat bacon fat in a large skillet over medium-high. Add okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 7–10 minutes. Add onion, bell pepper, and celery and cook, stirring frequently, until well softened, 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, garlic, chile pepper, thyme, and remaining spice mixture and cook 5 minutes more.

Step 4

Add okra mixture to Dutch oven and simmer, adding crab and/or shrimp during the last 5 minutes of cooking time (if using), until okra is tender and flavors have melded, 20–30 minutes. Discard bay leaves. Taste to adjust seasonings. Serve with rice alongside.