Perfect creme brulee

Step 1

Heat the oven to 150C (130C fan)/300F/gas 2.

Step 2

Put two medium ovenproof ramekins (ie, about 200ml capacity in each) in a small, high-sided baking tin; note that this recipe is easily doubled (or halved, so long as you can divide an egg yolk accurately; they usually weigh about 15g). To make a large version to serve eight to 10, use a 2.4-litre ovenproof dish, and multiply the ingredients listed above by four.

Step 3

Pour the cream into a small, heavy-based saucepan. Slit open the vanilla pod lengthways, then use a small, sharp knife to scrape out the seeds into the cream. Add the pod to the pan, too, then put it on a medium-low heat. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally and keeping an eye on it to ensure it doesn’t boil.

Step 4

Meanwhile, put the egg yolks into a medium-sized heatproof bowl and add the sugar. (If you managed to separate the eggs cleanly, use the spare whites to make meringue, macarons, chocolate mousse, low-fat omelettes, pancakes or, my personal recommendation, cocktails, including a gin fizz or whisky sour.) You could use brown sugar here, but the colour will be less vibrant.

Step 5

Beat the yolks and sugar together to combine, then put the bowl on a non-slip mat or damp folded tea towel next to the hob. Once the cream begins to simmer, remove the vanilla pod (wash it well later and, once completely dry, use to perfume a jar of sugar), then slowly pour the hot infused cream on to the egg yolk mix, whisking constantly as you do so.

Step 6

Divide the custard mixture between the ramekins – you might find it easier to transfer the custard to a heatproof jug first. Fill the baking tin with cold water until it comes about two-thirds of the way up the sides of the ramekins. Carefully slide the tin into the hot oven, being careful not to displace any water on to the custards.

Step 7

Bake for about 40 minutes, but begin to check on them after 30, because ovens and ramekins differ, and it’s all too easy to overbake creme brulee (though still edible, it’ll be dense and eggy). Take out when the custard just wobbles in the middle when tilted, rather than sloshing from side to side, and bear in mind that the custard will continue to set as it cools

Step 8

Cool in a sink or large bowl of cold water, then cover the cooled ramekins (or put them in a sealed container, so they don’t pick up any other flavours from the fridge) and chill until completely cold.

Step 9

Scatter the tops with the extra sugar – caster melts fastest, but any granulated sort will do – tilting to ensure the top of the custard is thoroughly coated, but keeping the layer as thin as possible, because that will give the perfect snappy crust. Use a blowtorch to caramelise the sugar, or put the ramekins under the grill and turn it on to hot. Either way, rotate until evenly caramelised.

Step 10

Leave to set for a couple of minutes before serving, or to cool completely, if you prefer.

Step 11

To ring the changes, substitute the vanilla in step 2 for a dash of almond essence or orange blossom water, or infuse the dairy with another spice such as nutmeg, cardamom or cinnamon (if using whole spices, leave them to steep in the warm cream for 30 minutes before reheating the cream and adding it to the yolks).