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To make the pesto, place roasted pumpkin seeds, ginger, garlic, basil and parmesan in a food processor, then whiz to a paste. With the motor running, slowly add the oil until combined. Cover and set aside.
Preheat oven to 180°C. Cut pumpkin in half. Place cut-side down on a lightly oiled baking tray and roast for 45 minutes until soft. Scoop out seeds and discard. Scrape out the flesh and discard the skin. Set flesh aside.
Heat oil in a saucepan. Add onion and carrots and cook over medium heat for 5 minutes until softened. Add pumpkin, stock, 2 cups water and the spices. Season. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer for 25-30 minutes. Cool slightly. Blend soup in batches, then return to pan. Stir through creme fraiche and gently reheat. Serve drizzled with the pesto and sprinkled with seeds and pepper.