Step 1

For swirl: In a small dry skillet, toast pepitas over medium, shaking occasionally, until most have popped and turned golden brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Let cool. In a food processor, combine pepitas, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon and the pinch salt. Pulse until mixture forms gritty bits. Stir in chocolate chips.

Step 2

Grease an 8×4-inch loaf pan and line with parchment paper. Set oven rack in the center position. Preheat oven to 350°.

Step 3

For bread: In a small bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, the ginger, and nutmeg.

Step 4

In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium. Cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pan with a silicone spatula, until butter is riddled with golden brown specks, about 8 minutes. (You've just made brown butter.) Remove from heat and stir in the remaining 1 cup sugar. Let cool 5 minutes.

Step 5

Add pumpkin, egg, milk and vanilla to butter mixture, stirring to combine. Stir in flour mixture just until combined. (Don't fret over lumps.)

Step 6

Scrape half the batter into prepared loaf pan. Sprinkle with the swirl mixture. Cover with the remaining batter. Use a chopstick or butter knife to carve a few letter S's through the pan, lightly swirling mixture into batter.

Step 7

Bake until a toothpick poked in the center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Cool in pan on a wire rack 10 minutes. Tip bread out of pan and cool completely.