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Preheat the oven to 200°C/gas 6. Pick over the raspberries, setting aside a few of the best for decoration. Crush the rest lightly with a fork and sprinkle with the sugar to get the juices flowing. If you're including ratafias, put them in a plastic bag and crush roughly with a rolling pin. Drop a spoonful of biscuit into the bottom of 6 pretty glasses, and trickle with the vodka (if using). Whisk the cream until it holds soft peaks. Whisk in the wine and the lemon juice and a little sugar - just enough to bring out the sweetness of the wine. Divide the crushed, sugared raspberries between the glasses, spoon in the syllabub and finish with the reserved berries.