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Take four 4-inch (10cm) lengths of the freshest fennel sticks and bash them with a rolling pin to release their flavor. Put a piece inside each fish, along with a crushed garlic clove, a bay leaf, and some seasoning. Lightly brush the fish with oil and season the skin–do this generously, as the cooking will burn off a lot of the seasoning. Spread the rest of the fennel sticks on the grate over a hot, ready-for-cooking fire. Lay the fish over the steaming fennel stems. As the fish cook, the fennel will first steam and then burn, infusing the fish with its flavor. Cook for 6 to 7 minutes on each side, until the skin is crisp and the flesh opaque. Serve steaming hot, with minted new potatoes and a salad–a dish of paper thin slices of fennel bulb, dressed with orange juice and olive oil, will echo and enhance the fennel notes in the fish.
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