Step 1

In a large saucepan, combine salmon with enough cold water to cover by 1 inch. Add juice from 1 lemon, leek or onion, celery, and bay leaf (if using). Set over medium heat and bring poaching liquid to 170°F, using an instant-read thermometer if you have one; otherwise, bring liquid to just below a bare simmer. Adjusting heat to maintain water temperature, cook until salmon flakes easily when pressed, about 6 minutes. Drain, discard aromatics, and transfer salmon to a mixing bowl. Using your fingers, shred salmon roughly.

Step 2

Meanwhile, in a small skillet, melt butter over medium heat, add shallot, and cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, about 3 minutes. Scrape shallots and butter into bowl with salmon. Add mayonnaise, chives, remaining 2 tablespoons (30ml) lemon juice, coriander seed, and cayenne. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well until ingredients are thoroughly mixed and salmon is more finely shredded.

Step 3

Transfer rillettes to a large ramekin, crock, or other container, pressing down with a spoon and working it into the corners and against the walls to avoid trapping any air bubbles. Press plastic against the surface and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled, at least 2 hours. Serve with toasts or crackers. Rillettes can keep refrigerated for up to 5 days with plastic pressed firmly against the surface.