Step 1

Whisk egg white, wine, cornstarch, grated ginger, salt, white pepper (if using), and 1 tsp. ground Sichuan peppercorns in a medium bowl. Thinly slice fish fillets on a diagonal into ¼" slices and place in bowl with marinade. Toss to coat and let sit 30 minutes while you make the broth.

Step 2

Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large wok or deep-sided skillet over medium-high. Add celery and bean sprouts and stir-fry, stirring constantly, until crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Transfer to a large deep bowl.

Step 3

Remove seeds from 6 dried chiles and cut crosswise into ¼" pieces. Pour 1 Tbsp. oil into same wok and heat over medium-high. Add coarsely chopped garlic, sliced ginger, sliced dried chiles, 6 whole dried chiles, 1 tsp. whole Sichuan peppercorns and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add bean paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour in stock and add remaining 1 tsp. ground Sichuan peppercorns. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover wok (use a baking sheet if you don’t have a lid), and simmer 15 minutes to infuse broth with flavor.

Step 4

Using your hands, lift fish out of marinade, shaking to remove excess, and transfer to hot broth; discard marinade. Cook over medium-low until just opaque, about 2 minutes. Using a spider or slotted spoon, transfer fish to bowl with celery and bean sprouts, arranging on top; carefully pour broth over. Top with scallions and cilantro.

Step 5

Wipe out wok, pour in remaining 4 Tbsp. oil, and heat over high until just smoking. Add finely chopped garlic, gochugaru, sesame seeds, remaining 20 chiles, and remaining 1 tsp. whole Sichuan peppercorns and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Immediately pour over top of fish.