Step 1

Prick the aubergines all over with a fork, then set over a medium gas flame (or on the coals of a barbecue or under the grill) and cook, turning occasionally with tongs, until blackened and collapsing, about 20-25 mins. Transfer to a plate and leave to cool. Peel the skin from the cooled aubergines or scoop out the flesh using a spoon. Try to remove most of the skin, but don’t worry if a few flecks remain.

Step 2

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas Heat the olive oil in a large ovenproof frying pan with the bay leaf and cumin seeds. When they start to sizzle, add the onion and garlic. Fry for about 5 mins until fragrant but not coloured, then stir in the tomato purée and cook it down for a couple of mins.

Step 3

Add the tomatoes and dried oregano, and cook for a few mins more until they have collapsed into the sauce. Add the aubergine flesh, chilli powder, chilli flakes and vinegar, and cook, stirring, for 1 min, then tip in the cans of black beans, one drained and one still with its liquid. Squeeze over a little of the lime juice and cook for 5 mins until reduced and bubbling, then transfer to the oven and roast for 15-20 mins until deep, dark and fully reduced.

Step 4

Season with more lime juice, if you like, and spoon the aubergine mixture into the warm tortillas with the coriander, crumbled feta, lettuce and pink pickled onions to serve