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For the rice: Gently wash the rice in a bowl, soak for 30 minutes, then drain.
Warm the oil in a 3-quart saucepan with the onion, ginger, garlic, and turmeric. Cook over medium-low heat for 8 minutes, then add the rice and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Stir to coat the grains, then add the coconut milk, 2 cups water, and the lime leaves. Bring to a boil, turn the heat to low, cover, and cook until the rice is done, 15 to 18 minutes, stirring twice during cooking.
Turn off the heat and set it aside while you prepare the tofu. It will look a little wet at first, but the liquid will be absorbed by the time you’re ready.
For the tofu: Drain the tofu, then cut it into 1/2-inch cubes. Combine the spices, 1 teaspoon salt, and the sugar in a bowl, add the tofu, and toss gently with a rubber spatula.
Heat the oil in a wok or skillet, add the tofu, and stir-fry until crispy and golden, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the scallions and cook just until they’re wilted, then add the lime juice. Serve the tofu on the rice, garnished with the cilantro.