Step 1

If you need to soak the ham, do so the night before. Heat oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas Place the ham, skin-side up, in a deep roasting tin, then add enough water to cover the base of the tin. Scatter the orange wedges and cinnamon stick around. Cover the pan with a tight tent of foil, then cook the ham for about 2½ hrs. (If using a different weight of ham, you want 20 mins per 450g.)

Step 2

While the ham is cooking, mix the mustard, treacle and orange zest together with enough orange juice to make a mixture loose enough to paint over the ham.

Step 3

When the ham has had its time, remove the roasting tin from the oven and turn up the heat to 220C/ fan 200C/gas Remove the foil, leave the ham until cool enough to handle, then pour away any liquid in the tin. Using a sharp knife, carefully cut away the skin to leave an even layer of fat. Use the tip of the knife to score the ham fat diagonally at 3cm intervals – first in one direction, then the other, to produce a diamond pattern. Liberally paint the glaze over the fat, then stud with the cloves at the points of the diamond shapes.

Step 4

Roast the ham for 30 mins until glazed and just beginning to char around the edges. Leave to cool and serve warm or cold, decorated with the bay and orange wedges, if you like, along with my delicious green bean salad and your favourite chutney.