Step 1

In the bowl of a stand mixer, stir the flour, yeast and table salt. Add the beer, ⅔ cup water, butter and barley malt syrup; mix with the dough hook on low until a shaggy dough forms, about 2 minutes. Increase to medium and mix until the dough is smooth, shiny, elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 6 to 7 minutes; if the dough climbs up the hook, stop and push it off. The dough should feel tacky but should not stick and cling to your fingers. If it does, knead in up to 2 tablespoons more flour. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours.

Step 2

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 275°F with a rack in the middle position. Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment. Spread the baking soda in an even layer on it and bake without stirring for 1 hour; it will not change in appearance. Cool, then transfer to a small airtight container; set aside. (The baked baking soda can be stored at room temperature for up to 1 month.) Reserve the parchment-lined baking sheet.

Step 3

When ready to shape the dough, remove it from the refrigerator and gently punch it down. Let stand, covered, until doubled in bulk, about 2 hours. Meanwhile, line another rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment, then mist it and the reserved one with cooking spray. In a small bowl, stir together the pumpkin, sunflower and caraway seeds; set aside.

Step 4

Heat the oven to 450°F with racks in the upper- and lower-middle positions. In a large Dutch oven over medium-low, whisk 3 quarts water and the baking soda; cover the pot. Turn the dough out onto an unfloured counter. Using a chef’s knife or bench scraper, divide it into 10 pieces, each about 95 grams (3¼ ounces). Roll each into a log roughly 6 inches long; keep the logs covered.

Step 5

Place 1 dough log in the center of your work surface. Using your hands and applying only light pressure to start, roll the dough back and forth against the counter to stretch it to a 26- to 28-inch rope. If the dough springs back when rolled, let it rest, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes; begin rolling additional pieces while the previous ones rest. If the dough has air pockets that resist rolling, apply forceful pressure as your hands pass over the bubble in order to get the dough to stretch.

Step 6

Cross the arms of the rope, forming an X about 3 inches in from each end, then twist the arms around each other and attach the ends to the “belly” at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions; press firmly to seal. Transfer the pretzel to a prepared baking sheet and shape it so it measures about 4½ inches wide. Shape the remaining portions in the same way, placing 5 pretzels, evenly spaced, on each baking sheet. Cover with kitchen towels and let rise at room temperature until puffy but not doubled in bulk, 15 to 20 minutes. Meanwhile, bring the water to a simmer, covered, over medium-high, whisking occasionally to ensure the soda dissolves.

Step 7

Carefully transfer 2 or 3 pretzels to the simmering water, taking care not to crowd the pot; the pretzels will expand as they simmer. Cook, gently ladling water over the pretzels, for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, return the pretzels to the baking sheet; repeat with remaining pretzels.

Step 8

Brush the surface of each pretzel with egg white. Using a small, sharp knife, score a horizontal slash, about ¼ inch deep and 3 inches long, along the belly of each pretzel. Sprinkle the pretzels with the seed mixture, followed by flaky salt. Bake until deeply browned, 14 to 16 minutes, switching and rotating the baking sheets halfway through. Cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes, then transfer the pretzels to a wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Step 9

Cheesy Soft Pretzels: Follow the recipe, omitting the pumpkin, sunflower and caraway seeds. After brushing the boiled pretzels with egg white, score as directed and sprinkle them with flaky salt, followed by 2 ounces (½ cup) shredded cheddar or Gruyère cheese. Bake and cool as directed.

Step 10

Pretzel Rolls: Follow the recipe to make and divide the dough, omitting the pumpkin, sunflower and caraway seeds. After dividing the dough into 10 portions, form each portion into a ball, creating a smooth, taut surface and pinching any seams on the bottom to seal them. Place 5 rolls, evenly spaced, on each baking sheet, then cover with kitchen towels and let rise at room temperature until puffy but not quite doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. About 30 minutes into rising, heat the oven to 450°F with racks in the upper- and lower-middle positions. Continue with the recipe to boil the rolls and return them to the baking sheets. Brush them with the egg white, then use a small, sharp knife to score an X, about ½ inch deep and 2 inches long, in the top of each roll. Sprinkle with flaky salt, then bake and cool as directed. Makes ten 4½-inch rolls.