Step 1

In large stockpot, bring 4 gallons water to rolling boil. (Note: Even small quantities of noodles need to be cooked a lot of water.) Add noodles and begin timing after water has returned to boil. If cooking semidried udon, boil 8 to 9 minutes before testing; if cooking dried, boil 10 to 12 minutes. Test by plucking a noodle from pot, plunging it into cold water, then biting. Noodle should be tender with no hard core; outer surface should be slippery but not overly soft. (This condition is what the Japanese refer to as koshi, or "substance," just as the Italians enjoy their pasta al dente.) If necessary, cook for another minute and check again.

Step 2

If you will be serving noodles hot, scoop them up into a strainer and lift from pot to drain. (Do not pour off cooking liquid; boiling water in pot can be used both to re-heat noodles, and to warm bowls in which they will be served.)

Step 3

If you will be serving noodles cold, drain them.

Step 4

Whether serving noodles hot or cold, rinse them well under cold running water to remove surface starch that would otherwise make them gummy. Then drain.

Step 5

Set noodles aside until ready to eat — they can be held for up to several hours (refrigerate if holding for more than 20 minutes). When ready to use, rinse noodles in boiling hot water if serving them in hot soup, or cold water if serving chilled as a salad.

Step 6

Other dried wheat noodles similar to udon include flat kishimen or thinner hiyamugi. Boil these dried noodles for 5 to 6 minutes before checking for doneness.