Step 1

Make the batter: Place the sugar, egg yolks, rum, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves in a large bowl and whisk until the sugar is mostly dissolved; set aside. Place the egg whites and cream of tartar in a medium bowl and whisk or beat with an electric mixer until stiff peaks form. Add the beaten egg whites to the bowl of egg yolks and gently fold until combined.

Step 2

For a single serving: Place 1/2 cup of the batter in a heated mug. Add 1 ounce of Cognac or brandy and 1 ounce of rum and stir gently to just combine but not deflate the batter. Add 2 ounces of hot milk, stir gently to combine, and garnish with grated nutmeg.

Step 3

For punch: Place all the batter in a 3-quart punch or serving bowl. Slowly pour in the Cognac and rum and stir gently to combine, being careful not to deflate the batter. Slowly pour in the milk and stir gently to combine. Garnish with grated nutmeg and serve immediately.