Step 1

Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large pot over medium. Cook 4 star anise pods, 2 cinnamon sticks, 8 whole cloves, 1 tsp. coriander seeds, and ½ tsp. fennel seeds, stirring occasionally, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Increase heat to medium-high and add 1 medium onion, quartered, 1 medium carrot, scrubbed, coarsely chopped, 2 medium celery stalks, coarsely chopped, and one 2" piece ginger, peeled, coarsely chopped. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are starting to char in places and browned bits form on bottom of pot, 8–10 minutes.

Step 2

Add one 5x3" piece kombu, ½ cup dried shiitake mushrooms, 1 Tbsp. rock sugar or 2 tsp. raw sugar, 1 Tbsp. white miso, 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 8 cups water to pot. Bring to a boil and cook, scraping up browned bits with a wooden spoon, until reduced just slightly, about 10 minutes. Reduce heat, cover pot, and simmer until broth is golden in color and quite fragrant, 45–60 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into medium saucepan; cover and keep warm over low heat. Taste broth and season with more salt if needed.

Step 3

While broth is simmering, wrap one 14-oz. block firm tofu in a clean kitchen towel and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Weigh down with a heavy object (a couple of heavy cans works well) and let sit 10 minutes. Unwrap tofu and cut into ¼"-thick matchsticks.

Step 4

Heat 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium. Add tofu in an even layer and cook, undisturbed, until lightly browned underneath, 6–8 minutes. Stir tofu and cook, tossing occasionally, until golden and crisp all over, about 5 minutes. Add 1 tsp. soy sauce and stir to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer tofu to a platter.

Step 5

Add 14 oz. oyster and/or shiitake mushrooms, torn or cut into bite-size pieces, to skillet and cook (still over medium heat), stirring occasionally, until softened and starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Add remaining 1 tsp. soy sauce and cook, stirring, until mushrooms are coated, about 1 minute. Transfer mushrooms to platter.

Step 6

Add 2 heads of baby bok choy, halved lengthwise and 3 Tbsp. water to skillet and cook over medium heat, stirring often, just until water is evaporated and bok choy is bright green, about 2 minutes (be careful not to overcook the boy choy; it will continue to cook in the bowls). Season bok choy with kosher salt and transfer to platter.

Step 7

Cook 12 oz. medium-width rice stick noodles in a large pot of boiling water according to package directions. Drain and run under cold water to prevent sticking.

Step 8

To serve, divide rice noodles among bowls. Top with tofu, mushrooms, bok choy, thinly sliced onion, and thinly sliced scallions. Ladle broth into bowls. Arrange bean sprouts, basil leaves, and lime wedges on another platter for topping as desired.