Step 1

Place mushrooms in a large bowl and pour in boiling water to cover. Let soak, adding more hot water if needed, until floppy but still sturdy, about 1½ hours.

Step 2

Meanwhile, place goji berries in a small bowl and pour in cold water to cover. Let soak until just softened, about 30 minutes, then drain.

Step 3

Drain mushrooms, wrap in a clean dish towel, and squeeze out any excess liquid. Remove any woody parts from mushrooms and tear into smaller pieces if large. Wipe out bowl and place mushrooms back into bowl. Add goji berries and toss to combine.

Step 4

Whisk garlic, oil, vinegar, and ¾ tsp. salt in a small bowl. Drizzle dressing over mushroom mixture and toss to coat. Let sit 10 minutes, then toss again. Taste and season with more salt and/or vinegar if needed. Let sit at room temperature at least 1 hour and up to 6 hours (cover and chill if holding longer than 1 hour).

Step 5

Just before serving, add chiles and cilantro and toss to combine.