Step 1

Place bay leaves and peppercorns in center of cheesecloth and tie closed with kitchen twine; set sachet aside. Toast turmeric in a dry small skillet over medium-low heat, stirring often, just until fragrant (be careful not to let it brown), about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Step 2

Cook coconut in same skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until burnt (not browned: burnt), about 3 minutes. Grind in a spice mill or with a mortar and pestle or finely chop. Transfer to another plate.

Step 3

Heat oven to 375°. Toss cauliflower and squash on a large rimmed baking sheet with 1 Tbsp. oil to coat; season with salt and pepper. Roast vegetables, tossing occasionally, until browned and tender, 30–40 minutes.

Step 4

Heat remaining 2 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Add onion, shallots, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring often, until golden brown and very fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Add red pepper flakes and cook, stirring often, just until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in toasted turmeric, coconut milk, and ¾ cup vinegar. Bring to a boil and cook until liquid is reduced by about one-third, 20–30 minutes.

Step 5

Meanwhile, prepare a grill for medium-high heat (or heat a grill pan over medium-high). Season chicken with salt and pepper and grill, turning occasionally, just until skin is charred (chicken will not be cooked through at this point), 8–10 minutes.

Step 6

Add chicken and reserved sachet to turmeric sauce. Cook, partially covered, until chicken is tender, 60–80 minutes. Stir honey and remaining ¼ cup vinegar in a small bowl until honey is dissolved; add to braise, then add roasted cauliflower and squash. Taste and season with more salt or honey as needed.

Step 7

Divide adobo among bowls and top with burnt coconut, pumpkin seeds, chiles, and scallion.

Step 8

Do Ahead: Adobo can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Reheat gently before serving.