Step 1

In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the white vinegar, water, sugar, and salt, stirring often to dissolve. Once the mixture comes to a simmer, remove from the heat and immediately add the onions. Let cool to room temperature. (The onions can be made up to several days in advance; they only get better with time.)

Step 2

Finely grate 1 garlic clove into a small bowl and stir in the yogurt. Season to taste with salt.

Step 3

Grate the garlic cloves into a large bowl. Add the yogurt, the juice of 1 lemon, and the vegetable oil and stir to combine. Sprinkle in the smoked paprika, cumin, cinnamon, and cayenne pepper and season the mixture with 2 1/2 teaspoons salt. Whisk well to combine.

Step 4

Add the chicken thighs to the marinade and turn to coat. Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes while you prepare a grill for medium heat, or heat a cast-iron grill pan over medium heat. (If you’re going to marinate them longer - which you should; they only improve with time, cover and keep chilled in the refrigerator for up to 6 hours and pull them out 30 minutes before cooking.)

Step 5

Once the grill is preheated to medium (you should be able to hold your hand over the grate for about 5 seconds before it gets too hot), lightly oil the grill grates.

Step 6

Using tongs, remove the chicken from the marinade, letting any excess drip back into the bowl, and transfer it to the grill. Cook, undisturbed, until it’s nicely charred underneath and naturally releases from the grates, 5 to 6 minutes.

Step 7

Flip the thighs and cook until just cooked through, 4 to 7 minutes more. (An instant-read thermometer should register 165°F (74°C) in the thickest part of the thigh.) Let the chicken thighs rest on a plate while you grill the pitas.

Step 8

Warm the pitas on the grill while the chicken rests, about 1 minute per side.

Step 9

Cut the remaining lemon into 4 wedges and pick the leaves from 1 bunch of mint or cilantro.

Step 10

Slice the chicken against the grain into 1/2-inch thick (12 mm) strips and serve on a big platter alongside the pitas, pickled onions, garlic yogurt, lemon wedges, and mint or cilantro for a build-your-own kinda sitch.