Step 1

To make the syrup, in a small saucepan, combine the sugar, lemon zest strips, peppercorns, cardamom and ⅔ cup water. Simmer over medium-high, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then remove from the heat. Stir in the lemon juice and rose water (if using). Cover and let cool while you prepare the cake.

Step 2

To make the cake, heat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position. Mist a 9-by-2-inch round cake pan with cooking spray, line the bottom with kitchen parchment, then mist the parchment. Roll up the phyllo lengthwise, then slice the roll crosswise into ½-inch-thick strips. Transfer to a rimmed baking sheet, then separate the strips and spread evenly. Bake until brittle and light golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes, flipping the phyllo once halfway through; it’s fine if the pieces break. Cool to room temperature on the baking sheet.

Step 3

In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the sugar and grated lemon zest on medium until fragrant, about 30 seconds. With the mixer on low, add the yogurt, oil, eggs, baking powder and salt. Increase to medium and beat until well combined, about 1 minute. Remove the bowl from the mixer.

Step 4

Using a silicone spatula, fold half of the phyllo into the batter until reduced in volume and evenly moistened. Repeated with the remaining phyllo. Transfer half the batter to the prepared pan and spread evenly without compressing. Sprinkle with half the pistachios. Top with the remaining batter and spread evenly. Sprinkle with the remaining pistachios.

Step 5

Bake until deep golden brown and a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. When almost done, strain the syrup into a 2-cup liquid measuring cup or small bowl; discard the solids. Set the cake on a wire rack. Using a toothpick, immediately poke holes into it every ½ inch. Slowly pour half the syrup evenly onto the warm cake, then let stand for about 5 minutes to allow the syrup to soak in.

Step 6

Slowly pour on the remaining syrup. The cake will not take in all of the syrup, so liquid will flood the pan. Cool to room temperature, at least 2 hours; the cake will deflate slightly as it cools. Run a paring knife around the edge to loosen the cake, then invert onto a platter. Lift off the pan and peel off the parchment. Re-invert the cake onto a serving plate.