Step 1

Cut the chicken into 1 1/2-inch chunks, making the thinner center pieces a little larger than the thicker ones on the ends. Set aside.

Step 2

Snap off the mushroom caps, then tear each into 2 or 3 pieces. Pull the stems in half lengthwise. Set both aside with the ginger, garlic, and green onions near the stove.

Step 3

In a small bowl, stir together the sugar, oyster sauce, soy sauce, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Taste and make sure the flavor is pleasantly balanced between salty, savory, and sweet. Adjust as needed. Set this seasoning sauce near the stove too.

Step 4

In a large wok or nonstick skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. When gently rippling, add the ginger. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring frequently and adjusting the heat down, as needed, to avoid scorching, until the ginger is golden brown; stop a bit shorter of deep brown because the ginger will continue cooking after the heat is turned off. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the ginger to a plate, leaving the oil in the pan.

Step 5

Reheat the wok over medium heat and add the garlic. Constantly stir and let it fry for about 20 seconds, until aromatic, then raise the heat to medium high and add the chicken. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the chicken no longer looks raw. Then add the mushroom, seasoning with about 1/4 teaspoon salt. Keep stir-frying for a few minutes, until the mushroom pieces are soft and glistening. If things look dry, splash in a little water.

Step 6

When the chicken is nearly cooked through, stir the seasoning sauce then pour into the pan. Cook, stirring swiftly to incorporate the flavors. When the sauciness has mostly disappeared, add nearly all the fried ginger, stirring to combine and distribute well. Add the green onion and cook briefly to wilt, then turn off the heat and transfer to a serving plate. Crown with the remaining fried ginger and serve immediately.