Step 1

Combine the beets, shallots, garlic, bay leaves, vinegar, sugar, olive oil, and a big pinch of salt in a large pot. Cover with about 12 cups water to completely submerge everything. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer and cook for 30 to 45 minutes, until the beets are fork-tender. Fish out the bay leaves. Transfer everything else to a blender and blend until smooth. Taste for seasoning, adding salt and vinegar as needed. It should be slightly tart and vibrant. Let cool completely before whisking in the buttermilk. Chill for 30 minutes or up to 1 hour before serving.

Step 2

To plate: Ladle the borscht into tall drinking glasses. Each portion should receive a pickled grape, dusting of ground fennel seeds, and drizzle of olive oil.