Step 1

For the Filling: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine butter, candi or toasted sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Mix on low speed until moistened, then increase to medium and beat the dark paste until creamy, light in color, and very soft, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a zip-top bag or disposable pastry bag and set aside until needed, up to 24 hours at room temperature.

Step 2

For the Dough: Wipe the bowl with a paper towel, then whisk together flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and baking soda until thoroughly combined. Melt butter in a 2-quart saucier over low heat, then stir in milk and yogurt, warming to about 80°F (27°C). Add to flour and stir to form a very dry and shaggy dough. With the hook attachment, knead on low until silky-smooth and elastic, so that it can be gently stretched into a thin but rough sheet without tearing, about 20 minutes.

Step 3

First Rise: Cover bowl with plastic and set dough to rise until puffy, light, and doubled in bulk, about 90 minutes at roughly 70°F (21°C). If the dough feels dense, firm, or overly resilient, rest 15 minutes before testing again (this is more likely in chilly months).

Step 4

For the Caramel Topping: Just before shaping the dough, line a 9- by 13- by 2-inch aluminum baking pan with parchment (or use two parchment-lined 8-inch by 3-inch round cake pans). Add the candi or toasted sugar to the pan, along with the salt and plain or toasted cream (or divide these evenly between the two pans). Mash with a fork to roughly combine.

Step 5

Shaping: Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface, dust with flour, and roll into a 13-inch square. Snip a corner from the bag of cinnamon filling, squeeze over the dough, and spread into an even layer with an offset spatula. Sprinkle pecans on top and roll to form a 12-inch log, ending seam side down.

Step 6

Slide an 8-inch strand of thread, unflavored dental floss, or butcher's twine under the dough until you reach the middle. Cross the ends over the top and pull tight to divide the log in two. Cut each half into six 1-inch slices and arrange in the prepared pan(s).

Step 7

Second Rise: Cover rolls with foil and refrigerate overnight, or up to 48 hours. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350°F (180°C); meanwhile, let the pan(s) stand at room temperature until oven is hot.

Step 8

To Bake and Serve: Bake, covered, until the rolls are puffed and firm but pale, about 40 minutes. (If using dark pans, check on the cinnamon rolls after 25 minutes.) Remove the foil and continue baking until lightly browned, about 10 minutes more. Loosen rolls from the edge of a pan with a dull knife, then invert onto a serving plate (or plates). Serve immediately.