Step 1

Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Sift flour into a medium bowl, then whisk in baking powder, sugar, and salt. Add butter and toss to break up the pieces, then smash each one flat between your fingertips. Continue smashing and rubbing until butter disappears into a coarse meal.

Step 2

Add diced ham, scallion, and only 1 ounce cheese (shy 1/4 cup; 30g); the rest will be used to top the scones. Toss until well combined, then stir in milk and cream to form a stiff dough. Turn onto a lightly floured surface and pat into a 7-inch round, no less than 1 inch thick. Cut into 6 wedges with a chef’s knife, cover with remaining cheese, and arrange on a parchment-lined half sheet pan.

Step 3

Bake until puffed and golden, about 25 minutes. Let cool at least 5 minutes. Serve as a snack, with eggy brunch dishes, or alongside hearty soups and stews. Leftovers can be stored up to 24 hours in an airtight container, then briefly warmed in a 350°F (180°C) oven to serve.