Step 1

Place flour, eggs, and extra-virgin olive oil in a food processor. Process until a dough forms. Wrap in plastic wrap and rest in fridge for 30 minutes.

Step 2

Remove dough. Divide into 4 pieces. Dust each piece with flour. Roll through pasta machine at the thickest setting. Repeat this process gradually decreasing the number setting. Stop when the dough has finished the second to last setting.

Step 3

Cut the dough into 1 1/2 x 1 1/2-inch squares. Roll each square diagonally over a dowel, chopstick, or finger. Press to seal at the end of the square. Lay out on a baking sheet that has been lined with parchment paper or wax paper dusted with semolina flour. Continue until all the pasta has been formed into little "quills.”

Step 4

Set aside pasta in a fridge, or freeze if being cooked on another day.

Step 5

In a food processor, chop a few mushrooms at a time until they are all finely chopped (almost pureed; they will look like mush). Periodically scrape down the sides of the food processor.

Step 6

In a large Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and season generously with salt. Once onions are soft and slightly caramelized, add tomato paste and pinch red chili flakes. Cook for another 5 to 10 minutes, stirring constantly. The paste should caramelize slightly but not burn.

Step 7

Add chopped mushrooms. Cook for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. (This will look like a wet mess at first. Over time, the liquid will cook off, and the mushrooms will take on a dark, caramelized color.)

Step 8

Add wine to deglaze. Scrape bottom of pot to remove any stuck-on mushroom bits. Stir constantly and cook until mixture is dry and wine has completely evaporated.

Step 9

Add heavy cream. Simmer for 10 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Step 10

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season generously with salt. The water should taste like the sea. If using fresh garganelli, cook in the boiling salted water for 3 to 5 min. If using dried pasta, cook according to the package instructions.

Step 11

While the pastas cooks, keep the ragu over low heat. When al dente, remove the pasta and add it to the sauce.

Step 12

Add pinch red chili flakes, butter, and the Parmesan. Stir to combine. Add 1⁄4 cup pasta water to help emulsify sauce. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Step 13

Serve in warm bowls; sprinkle shaved ricotta salata on top.