milkcream

Erin Jeanne McDowell has gifted us a new pumpkin pie with no stress for 2020. One with a glassy-smooth filling that will never crack, plus the easiest crust.

Pumpkin Sugar Pie With Cookie Crust from Erin Jeanne McDowell

(1/2 cup) granulated sugar

(1/2 cup) all-purpose flour

(1/2 cup) packed dark brown sugar

(1 cup) whole milk

(3/4 cup) heavy cream

(1 1/2 teaspoon) vanilla extract

(1/2 teaspoon) fine sea salt

(1 cup) pumpkin puree

(2 teaspoons) pumpkin pie spice (see note above)

(1/4 cup) granulated sugar

(1) large egg yolk (save the white

(1 teaspoon) vanilla extract (optional)

(1 3/4 cups) all-purpose flour

(1 tablespoon) water

Heat the oven to 375°F (190°C) with a rack in the lower third (preferably with a baking steel or stone on it).

In a medium bowl, whisk the sugar and flour to combine. Add the brown sugar and mix to combine. Whisk in the milk, cream, vanilla extract, and salt, and mix just to combine—too much whisking will lead to lots of air bubbles that can linger on the surface of the custard after you transfer it to the crust. Gently whisk in the pumpkin puree and pumpkin pie spice until incorporated.

Place the parbaked crust on a parchment-lined baking sheet and pour in the custard (pour any that doesn’t fit into a separate ramekin and bake). Bake until the filling appears set at the edges but is still jiggly in the center, 28 to 32 minutes. (In a deeper pan this can take much longer, even 45 minutes to an hour.) Cool to room temperature, then chill for at least 2 hours, or until ready to slice and serve. 

Pumpkin Sugar Pie

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or if you don’t have an electric mixer, feel free to mix in a bowl with a wooden spoon or silicone spatula), cream the butter and sugar on medium-low speed until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the egg yolk and vanilla, if using, and mix on medium speed to combine. Scrape the bowl well. Add the flour and salt and mix on low speed until fully incorporated, 45 seconds to 1 minute. Add the water and mix just until the dough is smooth, about 1 minute more. If the filling still looks dry or crumbly, you can add a few more drops of water until it holds together when pressed.

Turn out the dough and use your fingers to press it evenly into the pan or pans—this crust will hold a shape if you crimp it, but it also looks nice just flattened evenly to the edges. Chill for at least 30 minutes, and up to overnight.

This crust is best baked at 350°F (175°C). To parbake the crust: Bake, without pie weights, for 15 to 18 minutes, until the crust is beginning to turn lightly golden. If the bottom crust starts to puff up, you can poke the bottom with a fork in a few places to deflate it, and continue baking (the egg wash will seal the holes). To use with the pumpkin sugar pie filling: Remove the pan from the oven, brush the bottom and sides with egg wash (any egg wash is fine, but here, your leftover egg white works perfectly!), and let cool completely in the pan.

Press-In Cookie Crust

Here&#39;s an easy and quick shortcut recipe to making impressively delicious spicy miso ramen in a fraction of time. 

Spicy Miso Ramen EXPRESS

** SPICY MISO PASTE:

(130 grams) of white miso paste

(130 grams) of red miso paste

(80 grams) of sichuan douban chili paste

(or 3/4 medium) onion, cut into chunks

garlic,

2\" (33 grams) of ginger,

(60 grams) of mirin (Japanese sweet rice wine)

vegetable oil

sesame oil

dashi granules

(17 grams) of sesame paste (if Asian brands are unavailable, use tahini)

** SHOYU SOFT-BOILED EGGS:

eggs

soy sauce

dark brown sugar

water

** GARLIC AND TOGARASHI OI:

shallots,

sesame seeds

Japanese seven spice (shichimi togarashi)

pork

black pepper

mushrooms

(475 grams) of unsalted chicken or pork stock

\n1/4 cup of spicy miso paste\n\n

servings of fresh ramen noodles

scallions

nori/Japanese sushi seaweed, cut into rectangular sheets

TO MAKE THE SPICY MISO PASTE:  Combine all of the ingredients in a blender and blend until smoothly pureed.  You may need to stop and scrape the blender a few times to get it going in the beginning.  Transfer the mixture into a pot and set over medium heat.  Bring to a low simmer and keep cooking/stirring for another 5 min.  Let it cool completely and store in an air-tight container in the fridge until needed.

TO MAKE THE SHOYU SOFT-BOILED EGGS:  Gently place the eggs in a small pot and fill it with water until the eggs are covered by 1?.  Add a generous pinch of salt (not listed in the ingredient-list because it’s more of a superstition for easy-peeling than anything…) and bring the water to a bare simmer on medium-high heat, then immediately lower the heat down to low (only enough heat to keep it at a bare simmer/or if you want to be anal, 212ºF/100ºC).  The second the water reached the right temperature, set the timer at 4:30 min.  Gently move the eggs around a few times during cooking.  Once the timer goes off, immediately transfer the eggs into cold water and leave them to cool completely.

Combine soy sauce, dark brown sugar and water in a small sauce pot.  Warm up the mixture just enough to melt the sugar, then set aside.  Peel the eggs then submerge them in the soy sauce-mixture.  Turning them occasionally while marinating for 2~3 hours.

TO MAKE THE GARLIC AND TOGARASHI OIL:  Combine minced shallots, minced garlic, sesame seeds, salt and vegetable oil in a small pot and set over low heat.  Slowly cook/stir until the garlics are crispy and lightly browned, approx 5~6 min.  Turn off the heat and add the Japanese chili powder/togarashi.  Give the mixture a stir and let it sit for a few hours or overnight.

Spicy miso paste and condiments:

NOTE:  It’s important that you use unsalted, or minimally salted stock for this recipe.  I always store homemade, unsalted chicken/pork stock in the freezer as it gives me total control of the seasoning in the final dishes.  Whether you are using homemade or store-bought, if your stock already has a prominent saltiness to it, you’ll have to reduce the amount of spicy miso paste to accommodate which will reduce the miso-flavour in your soup.  You’d be trading flavours with salt, see?

The type of soy milk may also make a difference.  I prefer Asian-style unsweetened soy milk which tends to carry a stronger “tofu/soy bean” taste, but if that’s unavailable, American brands soy milk will do, too.  Just make sure it isn’t sweetened, or flavoured with vanilla or etc.

TO MAKE THE SPICY MISO RAMEN:  Rinse the dried shitake mushrooms to get rid of any sand/dirt.  Finely chop them and set aside (without soaking).

In a large soup pot, heat up 1 tbsp of toasted sesame oil on high heat and start browning the fatty ground pork with ground black pepper.  Once the pork has broken up, browned, and released its fat, add 1/4 cup of the spicy miso paste and cook for another min until fragrant.  Add the chopped shitake, unsalted stock and unsweetened soy milk and bring to a simmer.  Place 1/2 cup spicy miso paste on top of a very fine sieve.  Lower the sieve half-way into the simmering soup and use a spoon to slowly dissolve the paste into the soup (it may seem very thick and troublesome in the beginning but be patient, it’ll dissolve eventually).  You’d be surprised at how much “solids” within the paste will remain on top of the sieve, which if dumped directly into the soup, will make the soup very thick and “sauce-like”.

Discard the “solids” in the sieve and let the soup simmer for another 5 min.  If the soup tastes quite salty at this point, that is correct.  It’s Japanese ramen…  It is salty.

Cook the fresh ramen noodles according to package instructions, and drain well.  Divide the noodles into two large bowl and ladle the soup on top (you may have a bit more than needed).  For each serving, place 1 shoyu egg (cut into half), 2 tbsp of finely diced scallions, 3 rectangular nori sheets, and 2 tsp of garlic and togarashi oil.

Spicy miso ramen: (for TWO SERVINGS only)

Ok, so maybe nutmeg and chocolate is boring to others, but it was new to me. Particularly nutmeg and milk chocolate. I don&#39;t normally go for milk chocolate, but this tart managed to change my opinion. It was delicious enough that I&#39;m just going to share it, whether or not nutmeg and chocolate is a snooze fest! The idea comes from reading the Flavor Thesaurus by Niki Segnit, which is currently one of my favorite books. The tart crust is based off of Kate Zuckerman&#39;s hazelnut crust in The Sweet Life.

Milk Chocolate Nutmeg Tart with Hazelnut Crust

hazelnut tart crust (see below)

heavy cream

(about) nutmeg

butter

Barely sweetened whipped cream,

hazelnuts

all purpose flour

each, salt and baking powder

salted butter,

sugar

egg yolk,

Finely chop your chocolate, and cut your butter into several smaller pieces.

In a saucepan, bring the cream and 1/4 teaspoon of the ground nutmeg just to a boil around the edges. Remove it from the heat and immediately dump in the chocolate and the butter. Let it sit undisturbed for a minute. Then gently, starting from the center of the pot and stirring in small circles, begin to stir the melted chocolate into the cream. Stir in progressively larger circles (but still gently because you don’t want extra air to get in there and ruin the silky consistency), until it is completely mixed and is a uniform color.

Set aside and allow to cool for just a bit, around 10 minutes, then taste and add up to another 1/4 teaspoon of nutmeg to get a nice spicy flavor in the chocolate. Next, pour the chocolate mixture into the pre-baked tart crust. Set it in the fridge and let it chill for a couple of hours before serving.

Serve chilled in thin slices with soft pillows of whipped cream mounded on top.

Milk chocolate nutmeg tart

In a food processor, grind the hazelnuts and the flour together until you have a pretty fine powder. Transfer this to a small bowl and whisk in the baking powder and salt.

In a stand mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter at medium speed for a minute. Then, beat in the sugar on medium-high speed until the butter and sugar are light and fluffy and fully creamed together, about 6 minutes. Stop on occasion during this process to scrape down the sides.

Beat in the egg yolk until fully incorporated, a couple minutes.

Use a spatula to fold the dry ingredients into the wet. Then, mix it with the mixer on slow speed for a couple of minutes, until completely combined. Stop and scrape down the edges now and then to make sure everything gets mixed in. Gather the dough into a ball and pat it into a thick disc, then wrap it in plastic wrap and chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours or up to 24.

On a lightly floured surface, roll out the crust and carefully transfer it to a 9-inch tart pan. Press it into the tart pan, using your fingers to press together and fix any cracks (my dough cracked quite a bit, but it was really malleable and easy to press back together, making it quite nice to work with). Freeze the tart shell for 30 minutes.

Preheat your oven to 350° F. Line the frozen tart shell with parchment paper or aluminum foil and fill it with dry beans or pie weights. Put it in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. Take it out of the oven, remove the weights and lining, then pop it back into the oven to bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until golden brown.

Transfer to a cooling rack, and allow to cool before filling with the chocolate filling.

Hazelnut tart crust

These pork buns are salty and sweet and texturally interesting, they’re fun to look at and eat, and they involve pork belly, a close cousin of bacon.

Momofuku&#39;S Pork Buns

pork belly

kosher salt

Kirby cucumbers,

dry yeast

bread flour

dry milk powder

salt

baking powder, rounded

baking soda

pork fat, bacon fat

Vegetable oil

hoisin sauce

Sriracha,

Momofuku&#39;s Pork Buns

Put the pork belly in a roasting pan that holds it snugly, fat side up. Combine 1/2 cup salt and 1/2 cup sugar in a small bowl and rub all over the pork. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, and no longer than 24.

Heat the oven to 450ºF. Discard any liquid that has accumulated in the roasting pan and put the pork belly in the oven. Cook for 1 hour, basting it with the rendered fat halfway through, until it's golden brown.

Turn the oven temperature down to 250ºF and cook until the pork is tender, another 1 hour and 15 minutes or so. Transfer the pork to a plate, decant the fat and the meat juices from the pan and reserve it for the buns. Allow the pork to cool slightly.

When it’s cool enough to handle, wrap the pork in plastic wrap or aluminum foil and put it in the fridge until it’s thoroughly chilled and firm. (You can skip this step if you’re pressed for time, but the only way to get neat, nice-looking slices is to chill the belly thoroughly before slicing it.)

Combine the cucumbers with the remaining sugar and salt in a small mixing bowl and toss to coat. Let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Use right away or refrigerate for up to 4 hours.

When you're ready to make the buns, cut the pork belly into 1/2-inch-slices about 2 inches long. Warm them in a pan over medium heat for a minute or two, until soft and heated through. Use the pork right away.

Pork Belly and Quick-Pickled Cucumbers

Stir together the yeast and 1 1/2 cups room temperature water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the flour, sugar, milk powder, salt, baking powder, baking soda and fat and mix on the lowest speed setting for 8 to 10 minutes. The dough should gather together into a ball on the hook. Lightly oil a large bowl and put the dough in it, turning it over to coat it with the oil. Cover the bowl with a dry kitchen towel and put it in a warm place and let the dough rise until it doubles in size, about 1 hour 15 minutes.

Punch the dough down and turn it out onto a clean work surface. Using a sharp knife, divide the dough in half, then divide each half into 5 equal pieces. Gently roll the pieces into logs, then cut each log into 5 pieces, making 50 pieces total. They should be about the size of a Ping-Pong ball and weigh about 25 grams each. Roll each piece into a ball and set them on baking sheets. Cover them loosely with plastic wrap and let them rise for 30 minutes. While they're rising, cut out fifty 4-inch squares of parchment paper. 

After 30 minutes, use a rolling pin to roll each ball into a 4-inch-long oval. Brush lightly with vegetable oil, lay a chopstick horizontally across the center of the oval and fold the oval over onto itself to form a bun. Gently pull out the chopstick, leaving the bun folded, and transfer it to a square of parchment paper. Put it back under the plastic wrap and form the rest of the buns. Let the buns rest for 30 to 45 minutes: they will rise a little.

Set up a steamer on top of the stove. Working in batches so you don’t crowd the steamer, steam the buns on the parchment squares for 10 minutes. Remove the parchment. You can use the buns immediately or allow them to cool completely, then put them in plastic freezer bags and freeze for up to 2 months. Reheat frozen buns in a stove top steamer for 2 to 3 minutes, until puffy, soft, and warmed all the way through. Freeze half the buns in airtight bags for another time.

Open a warm bun and spread about 2 teaspoons of hoisin sauce on the inside. Add 2 pieces of pork belly, then a couple slices of pickle. Add a scattering of scallion and a squirt of sriracha if you like. Repeat with the remaining buns, and eat!

Pork Buns

We have gotten totally spoiled by living near a bunch of really good ice cream shops with all sorts of great flavors. A favorite of mine is malted ice cream -- in ice cream form, not in shake/frappe form. It may not be terribly sophisticated, but I adore malt (and malted milk balls), probably because we had a malt shop in town that made insanely thick malts -- complete with whipped cream, a wafer, and a cherry on top -- when I was growing up, and it was where we went for treats on warm summer evenings. Anyhow, back to the present. Earlier in the summer, our neighborhood ice cream shop (a.k.a. our after-dinner destination almost every day) had both malted vanilla and a chocolate ice cream with pretzel pieces. I had a scoop of each together, but what I really wanted was to have them combined into one flavor (plus the pretzel bits weren&#39;t coated in anything to keep them from getting soggy, and something definitely needed to be done about that!). So, ta-da! This is basically a malted version of Cook&#39;s Illustrated&#39;s vanilla ice cream with homemade chocolate covered pretzel nubbins swirled in. I usually don&#39;t use corn syrup in anything, but I&#39;ve got to say, it does a nice job of keeping the ice cream from freezing too hard.

Malted Vanilla Ice Cream with Chocolate-Covered Pretzels

dark chocolate

milk

corn syrup

malt powder

vanilla extract

Chocolate-covered pretzel bits

Line a rimmed baking sheet with wax paper. Gently melt the chocolate in a double boiler or in the microwave. Stir in the butter until the mixture is smooth and the butter has completely disappeared.

Drop the pretzel bits into the chocolate and stir until all the pretzel pieces are coated. Then, using a fork, lift the pretzel bits out of the chocolate several at a time and push them onto the lined baking sheet, trying to make sure the individual pieces are separated from each other, for the most part. Transfer to the refrigerator to chill until the chocolate has hardened. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

Combine the cream, milk, 1/4 cup of sugar, corn syrup, and salt in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat to a bare simmer, then turn the heat down. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, malt powder, and the remaining 1/4 cup sugar.

When the cream mixture is hot, whisk a ladleful of the hot cream into the egg yolks (whisk vigorously!) to temper them. Repeat with one or two more ladlefuls. Then, pour the egg mixture into the pot with the rest of the cream mixture.  

Cook the custard mixture over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until it has thickened to a custard texture and coats the back of a spoon (it will be around 180 F). Pour the custard through a fine mesh strainer into a large metal bowl, then stir in the vanilla.

You can chill your custard over an ice bath, but I have hated ice baths ever since organic chemistry (I don't like bain-maries much either for the same reason). I just stick mine, covered, into the fridge and leave it overnight or until it is completely chilled.

Transfer your custard to your ice cream machine and process according to the manufacturer's instructions until it reaches the consistency of soft serve, adding the pretzel bits in the last minute or so of churning.   

Eat immediately (mmmm, soft serve), or transfer to an airtight container and chill for a couple hours until firm.

Malted vanilla ice cream

Deep Chocolate Cake with Orange Icing

brown sugar

coffee (or use instant espresso)

unsalted butter

bittersweet chocolate, chopped

eggs, lightly beaten

unsalted butter, softened

confectioners\' sugar, sifted

orange zest

orange extract

Cointreau

mascarpone

milk, plus more as needed

Heat the oven to 350° F, first positioning a rack in the center of the oven. Sift together the flour, baking soda and salt and set aside.

Combine the brown sugar, coffee, butter and chocolate in a medium heavy saucepan over low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally until the butter and chocolate are almost completely melted. Remove from the heat and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the vanilla and set aside to cool.

When the chocolate mixture is about at room temperature, add the eggs and using a wooden spoon, stir well to combine. Add the dry ingredients and the milk in stages, alternating between the two and stirring well between each addition. (The batter should be fairly smooth, but it’s okay if you end up with some small lumps.)

Pour the batter into a greased pan measuring roughly 8 1/2” x 11” and bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the center of the cake springs back when you press it lightly with your finger and a cake tester inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Cool completely on a rack.

For the chocolate cake

Using a wooden spoon, combine the butter and confectioners’ sugar in a medium bowl. Stir in in the zest, orange extract, Cointreau and mascarpone, and then switch to a whisk to attack any lumps. Gradually whisk in the milk, adding just enough to make the icing spreadable.


Spread a thin layer of icing over the top of the cake and refrigerate briefly so that the icing firms up a little. Cut the cake into squares to serve. 

For the orange icing

A sweet or savory spin on biscuits that feature sweet potato for a tender, moist interior and a very pretty golden color. Fold in some fresh herbs for a more savory flavor, and to help pair these biscuits with one of your favorite brunch or dinner recipes. For a sweeter version, add a few tablespoons of sugar.

Vegan Sweet Potato Biscuits

unsweetened soy, almond, or rice milk

apple cider vinegar

sweet potato puree (homemade or store-bought; substitute pumpkin

all-purpose flour,

baking powder

sweet potato puree (homemade

all purpose flour,

organic cane sugar

Preheat the oven to 400° F. Whisk together the non-dairy milk and cider vinegar vigorously, until it's frothy. Stir in the sweet potato puree.

Mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together. Add the buttery spread and use a pastry cutter to mix it into the flour. The pieces of buttery spread should be so small that they're not really visible by the time you're done. (Alternately, you can use two knives for the cutting.) Stir in the herbs now, if using.

Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add the wet ingredients and the herbs, if using. Fold them in with a spatula, then knead the mixture together quickly with floured hands, until everything is just combined evenly. (Depending on how moist your sweet potato purée is, you may need to add slightly more flour.) 

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and flatten it to a rectangle about 1-inch thick. Use a cookie or biscuit cutter to cut it into 6 to 8 biscuits. Place the biscuits onto a parchment lined baking sheet and brush the tops with the tablespoon of melted buttery spread. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until lightly golden on bottom and firm on top. Transfer to wire racks to cool until you're ready to enjoy them.

Savory Vegan Sweet Potato Biscuits

Mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt together. Add the buttery spread and use a pastry cutter to mix it into the flour. The pieces of buttery spread should be so small that they're not really visible by the time you're done. (Alternately, you can use two knives for the cutting.) 

Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and add the wet ingredients. Fold them in with a spatula, then knead the mixture together quickly with floured hands, until everything is just combined evenly. (Depending on how moist your sweet potato purée is, you may need to add slightly more flour.) 

Sweet(er) Vegan Sweet Potato Biscuits

The nuoc cham is spicy, sweet, sour, and somewhat funky; when you add coconut milk, some of the fire is toned out and replaced with a rich creaminess. Since the nuoc cham contains a fair amount of fish sauce, it makes a sensible companion to seafood. Here, we&#39;ve used shrimp, though flaked poached fish would be welcome, too. The fast-to-cook rice noodles will loop around whatever protein you&#39;ve chosen, catching the sauce and hiding kernels of corn and little sweet peas. The dressing recipe adapted from Ali Slagle and Alexandra Stafford via Bon Appétit.

Vietnamese-ish Rice Noodle Salad with Shrimp, Peas, and Corn 

fish sauce

lime zest

lime juice

garlic clove, sliced

coconut milk,

grapeseed or olive oil

Thai chiles, thinly sliced

rice noodles

corn kernels

peas (frozen peas are fine)

Lime wedges,

Bean sprouts,

peeled, deveined, cooked shrimp (boil, broil, sauté)

Wasabi peas, for serving (optional)

Fresh basil and mint,

In a jar, mix the sugar, fish sauce, lime zest, and lime juice with a fork or whisk until the sugar is completely dissolved. Add the garlic and chilies and a few grinds of black pepper, and let everything hang out for around 30 minutes. Taste and adjust sugar and lime juice. This will keep in an airtight jar in the fridge for up to 1 week. 

Whisk in the coconut milk, then drizzle in the oil, whisking to emulsify. Taste and adjust. 

For the coconut nuoc cham: 

Place the rice noodles, corn, and peas in a large bowl. Bring a kettle of water to a boil, then pour the hot water over the rice noodles. Let this sit, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the noodles are tender. Drain, rinse with cold water, and drain well.

Mix the noodles and vegetables with the coconut nuoc cham. Mix in the shrimp, then top with the bean sprouts, wasabi peas, and fresh herbs. Serve with lime wedges. 

For the salad:

I have a (somewhat rational) hatred towards leftovers. But this lasagna, with its creamy béchamel, wilted greens, and subtle earthiness, retains its goodness overnight. It&#39;s essentially an elevated mac and cheese, and even I will eat it the next day. Some might even say it gets better with time. My better half will eat it for breakfast, reheated in a pan with a fried egg on top! Simplify it by combining all the components with a chunky pasta shape and baking it as a casserole instead of as a layered lasagna. 

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