Step 1

Soak the chillies in boiling water for 10-15 minutes, until soft.

Step 2

Drain the chillies, then put them in a mortar or small food processor, add a little salt, then pound to a paste.

Step 3

Peel and slice the shallots, garlic, ginger and galangal, and peel and finely chop three of the lemongrass stalks.

Step 4

Add all these to the chillies with the turmeric, a good pinch of salt and 75ml of the coconut milk, and pound to a paste.

Step 5

If using desiccated coconut, put a tablespoon of the oil in a frying pan on a medium heat, then fry the coconut, stirring, until deep golden brown; if using fresh grated coconut, do the same, but without the oil.

Step 6

Pound the fried coconut to a paste while it’s still warm.

Step 7

Pour the remaining oil into a pan just wide enough to hold the chicken in a single layer and put it on a medium-low heat.

Step 8

Scrape the spice paste into the pan and fry, stirring regularly, until fragrant, oily and audibly frying, rather than steaming.

Step 9

Stir in the remaining coconut milk, tamarind water and sugar, then add the chicken to the pot, pushing it down into the sauce.

Step 10

Add the remaining lemongrass stalk, bruising it well first, then bring to a simmer.

Step 11

Turn down the heat and leave to cook, turning the chicken occasionally, so it cooks evenly, and stirring regularly to make sure the sauce doesn’t burn, for about an hour, until the oil pools in orange puddles on top and the sauce is thick, dark and paste-like.

Step 12

Stir in the toasted coconut and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Step 13

Scatter with shredded lime leaves and chillies to serve.